Entry Light Control System Control Unit Input Test

1.Before testing the entry light control functions, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system test mode A.

Multiplex Integrated Control Unit:


2.Remove the left kick panel.

3.Disconnect the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors.

NOTE: All connectors are wire side of female terminals.

4.Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.

  • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
  • If the terminals look OK, go to 5.

5.With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.

  • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, the recheck the system.
  • If all the input tests prove OK, go to 6.

Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 
P1
(P14) 
BRN
(BRN) 
Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground:
There should be continuity. 
  • Poor ground (G502)
  • An open in the wire
 
E9 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground:
There should be continutiy. 
  • Poor ground (G601)
  • An open in the wire
 
P7 ORN Under all conditions Attach to ground:
Ignition key light should come on. 
  • Blown No. 13 (20A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
  • Faulty ignition keylight (LED)
  • An open in the wire
 
I4 GRN/RED Ceiling light switch in middle position Attach to ground:
Ceiling light(s) should come on. 
  • Blown No. 6 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
  • Blown bulb
  • Faulty ceiling light
  • An open in the wire
 

( ): RHD type 


6.Reconnect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors on the under-dash fuse/relay box.

  • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
  • If all the input tests prove OK, go to 7.

Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 
E15 GRN Driver's door open Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Faulty driver's door switch
  • An open in the wire
 
Driver's door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
  • Faulty driver's door switch
  • Short to ground
 
H12 LT GRN/RED Front passenger's door open Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Faulty front passenger's door switch
  • An open in the wire
 
Front passenger's door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
  • Faulty front passenger's door switch
  • Short to ground
 
E14 GRN/YEL Left or (right) rear door open Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Faulty left rear door switch
  • An open in the wire
 
Left or (right) rear door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
  • Faulty left rear door switch
  • Short to ground
 
H13 GRN/WHT Right or (left) rear door open Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Faulty right rear door switch
  • An open in the wire
 
Right or (left) rear door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
  • Faulty right rear door switch
  • Short to ground
 
P13
(P2) 
RED/WHT Ignition key inserted into the ignition switch Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Poor ground (G501)
  • Faulty  ignition key switch
  • An open in the wire
 
Ignition key removed from the ignition switch Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
  • Faulty ignition key switch
  • Short to ground
 

( ): RHD type 

Door Multiplex Control Unit:


7.Remove the driver's door panel.

8.Disconnect the 23P connector from the  door multiplex control unit.

9.Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.

  • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
  • If the terminals look OK, go to 10.

10.Reconnect the connector to the door multiplex control unit, and make these input tests at the appropriate connector.

  • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
  • If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it.

Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 
22 YEL/RED Driver's door lock knob locked Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Faulty driver's door lock actuator
  • Poor ground (G501 or G601)
 
Drive's door lock knob unlocked Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
  • Faulty driver's door lock actuator
  • Short to ground
 
WHT/RED Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Faulty driver's  door key cylinder switch
  • Poor ground (G501 or G601)
  • An open in the wire
  • Short to ground
 
Driver's door key cylinder switch in the neutral position Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
21 WHT Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
  • Poor ground (G501)
  • An open in the wire
  • Short to ground
 
Driver's door key cylinder switch in the neutral position Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
WHT/BLK Driver's door lock knob unlocked Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 1 V or less. 
  • Faulty driver's door lock actuator
  • Poor ground (G501 or G601)
  • An open in the wire
 
Driver's door lock knob locked Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more. 
  • Faulty driver's door lock actuator
  • Short to ground